Arriving by ferry from Naples, Ischia immediately announces itself through scent and sight: mineral-rich earth, swollen citrus, the salt of the sea and luxuriant greenery climbing the hills. The island is rooted in food traditions where pride and ritual are central. While many travellers equate Italy with pizza and pasta, regional cooking rewards curiosity — and Ischia delivers several surprises.
The island’s signature is Coniglio all’Ischitana, Ischia-style rabbit. Rabbits were introduced in antiquity and multiplied across the landscape; historically they foraged on grasses, fava stems, fruit and vines, sometimes living in burrow-like conditions preserved by the traditional “da fossa” method. Today some rabbits are farmed, while others are still sourced wild; restaurants carrying the Slow Food symbol help protect those older practices. The dish itself is as much about the sun-ripened tomatoes as the meat: rabbit slow-cooked in a clay tegame with local herbs, a whole bulb of garlic and generous splashes of the island’s white wine until it stews in its own juices.
I should be transparent: I don’t eat meat. In some parts of Italy that can be limiting, but on Ischia the soil and gardens play an equal role to the sea, and many restaurants offer multiple vegetarian options. Antipasti are often meat-free, and everywhere I ate there was a parmigiana di melanzane on the menu — the ultimate comfort-baked aubergine casserole. I sampled several versions: some leaning on smoked mozzarella and others showcasing the fragrant herbs born of volcanic soil. Aubergines grow across the farms, their deep purples contrasting with roadside lemons and limes; another rustic favourite is melanzane alla funghetto, where chunks of aubergine are pan-fried in olive oil with garlic, tomatoes and basil. The tomatoes are intensely sweet and the basil so aromatic you’ll find yourself stopping to inhale it wherever it grows.
Sweet treats are plentiful too. Pastiera, the ricotta-and-grain tart traditionally eaten at Easter, is available year-round, and nearly every gelateria on the island does an exceptional tart lemon sorbetto — a bright, palate-cleansing spoonful that became a repeated delight.
Where to eat on Ischia — highlights
Trattoria Il Focolare
Located high in the hills between Casamicciola and the village of Fiaiano, Trattoria Il Focolare is a family-run institution from the D’Ambra family. Founded by Riccardo and Loretta D’Ambra and now tended by their children and cousins, the kitchen is led by brothers Agostino and Francesco while sisters and cousins run the front of house. The restaurant gained international attention after Stanley Tucci visited for his series, and the sprawling rustic space — terraces with sunset views, an outdoor bar area with ping-pong and other games — encourages a long evening of eating. Inside, photos of famous visitors and playful film posters line the walls; after dinner the family often leads guests into the kitchen and continues the hospitality with stories and bites.
Dish to order: A multi-plate antipasti feast
Address: Via Cretajo, 3, 80072 Fiaiano NA, Italy
Jack all’Epomeo
Set in the lively heart of Forio at Piazza Matteotti, Jack all’Epomeo is perfect for outdoor dining and people-watching. The atmosphere is part of the appeal, but the food is reliably classic: fat anchovies, melanzane preparations, pizzas and a neat spaghetti aglio e olio in Neapolitan style.
Dish to order: Fish of the day
Address: Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 6, 80075 Forio NA, Italy
Di Meglio
A neighbourhood pizzeria in Forio, Di Meglio turns out authentic Neapolitan pies that can rival offerings in Naples itself. Portions are generous and well priced — a large margherita once came in at €7.50.
Dish to order: Calzone Napoletano
Address: Via Tommaso Cigliano, 117, 80075 Forio NA, Italy
Ristorante O’ Pignattello
In Lacco Ameno, O’ Pignattello offers tasting menus that map the island’s foodways. The blind tasting we chose featured a superb vegetarian sequence, brilliantly fresh seafood (a perfectly cooked mackerel stood out) and a refined take on rabbit as filled ravioli. The wine list is strong, and a simple endive salad provided a welcome bitter counterpoint to richer courses.
Dish to order: The tasting menu
Address: Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 154, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Italy
La Veranda Restaurant
Perched at San Montano Resort & Spa with views over San Montano Bay, La Veranda is a sundowner spot with an indulgent menu. Primarily seafood-focused but with surprisingly many vegan options, meals often begin with housemade breadsticks and a daily surprise canapé. A particularly striking parmigiana — green-and-white striped — was one of the best on the island, and the fish of the day is consistently a highlight.
Dish to order: Parmigiana
Address: Via Nuova Montevico 26, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Isola d’Ischia, Italy
Exploring Ischia’s food is equally about place and plate: volcanic terraces, small family farms and a coastline that supplies the freshest fish. Whether you follow a rabbit recipe with centuries of history, indulge in multiple parmigiane, or chase the best lemon gelato, the island rewards slow, curious eating.
A version of this story originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK.
