A Beginner's Guide to Vietnamese Street Food
Pho, bun cha, banh mi and more: the dishes worth seeking out in Vietnam, where they come from, and how to eat on the street with confidence.
Some of the best meals in Vietnam are served from a single pot on the pavement, eaten on a plastic stool a few inches off the ground. Street food is not a side attraction here; it is how much of the country eats every day. This guide covers the dishes to know and how to approach them as a first-timer.
The essential dishes
Pho
Vietnam's best-known dish is a rice-noodle soup in a clear, slow-simmered broth, usually beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga). It originated in the north, and Hanoi-style pho is lighter and simpler, while southern versions come with a plate of fresh herbs, bean sprouts and lime on the side. It is traditionally a breakfast dish, and many of the best stalls sell out by mid-morning.
Bun cha
A Hanoi lunch favourite: grilled pork patties and slices of pork belly served in a bowl of sweet-sour dipping sauce, with cold rice vermicelli and herbs to add as you go. Look for the smoke from charcoal grills on the pavement around midday.
Banh mi
A crisp, airy baguette filled with pâté, cold cuts or grilled meat, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, coriander and chilli. It reflects the French colonial era, but the combination is entirely Vietnamese. Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City are both famous for theirs.
Banh xeo
A crisp, turmeric-yellow rice-flour pancake filled with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. You wrap pieces in lettuce or rice paper with herbs and dip them in fish sauce.
Com tam
"Broken rice" is a southern staple, especially in Ho Chi Minh City: fragrant broken rice grains topped with grilled pork chop, a fried egg and a drizzle of scallion oil.
Cao lau
A noodle dish closely tied to Hoi An, with thick, chewy noodles, slices of pork, crisp croutons and herbs in a small amount of rich sauce.
Ca phe
Vietnamese coffee is strong, often dripped through a small metal filter and served with sweetened condensed milk, hot or over ice. In Hanoi, try egg coffee, topped with a whipped egg-yolk cream.
How to eat street food with confidence
- Follow the crowd. A stall full of locals means fresh food and fast turnover.
- Look for a speciality. Many stalls cook one dish and have done so for years. That focus is usually a good sign.
- Eat food that is cooked hot in front of you if you have a sensitive stomach, and ease into raw herbs and salads.
- Drink bottled or filtered water and be cautious with ice if you are unsure of the source.
- Check the price first if no menu is shown. Most dishes are inexpensive, and asking up front avoids misunderstandings.
- Carry small notes. Street vendors rarely take cards and may not have change for large bills.
A few useful words
- Xin chào: hello
- Cảm ơn: thank you
- Bao nhiêu tiền?: how much is it?
- Không cay: not spicy
- Ngon quá: delicious
Final thoughts
The best way to understand Vietnam is to eat your way through it. Start with a bowl of pho in the morning, follow the grill smoke to bun cha at lunch and end the day with a banh mi from a busy corner cart. Pull up a stool, point at what the person next to you is eating, and you will rarely go wrong.