Expedition cruising to polar regions is booming, even when summer highs barely creep above freezing. While Antarctica attracts travelers for penguins, the Arctic draws people north for polar bears and walruses—especially in remote Svalbard. On a May voyage aboard Quark Expeditions’ modern Ocean Explorer, I experienced why this part of the world is so magnetic. It was my 21st expedition cruise and fifth Arctic trip in five years, and Svalbard still surprised me.
Ocean Explorer, launched in 2021, feels bright and roomy for a polar-class ship designed for nimble exploration. At full capacity she carries 138 passengers; our sailing had about 93, so space and attentive service never felt scarce. Quark’s guides are practiced at finding wildlife in these waters: we saw polar bears on nearly every outing and had some of the most intimate walrus encounters I’ve experienced.
A core tenet of expedition travel here is to spend as much time ashore and in Zodiacs as conditions allow—the destination is the point, not the vessel. Still, Ocean Explorer is a comfortable base, and I was glad for the onboard downtime we had. One standout feature is the outdoor infinity-edge pool and adjacent hot tubs on Deck 7 aft. On other expedition ships pools are often empty or closed because of rough seas; in protected fjords during our trip the pool stayed open most days and was a delightful way to soak in the scenery. The pool’s clear acrylic back wall frames glaciers and peaks, so floating on my back and gazing at the mountains felt like being inside a moving landscape painting.
After a chilly dip, the nearby gym, spa and sauna were ideal for warming up. The sauna’s large picture windows let you keep watching the world while thawing out; on one visit I heard the call—polar bear at noon—but opted to linger in the steam. Staying put turned out to be the right call for me that afternoon: a minke whale surfaced nearby, my only cetacean sighting of the trip.
But the most memorable moments came off the ship, with walruses taking center stage. Many travelers come for polar bears, and Svalbard is renowned for them, but pinnipeds—seals, fur seals and especially walruses—captured my attention in a new way. Regulations require a larger buffer for polar bears (roughly 500 meters), while walrus viewing commonly permits a closer approach—around 150 meters—though the animals themselves don’t always respect human-imposed lines.
Our first walrus encounter was dramatic: after dinner we spotted two to three dozen animals hauled out on the low shores of Moffen Island at 80° north. From the ship we used binoculars to study the mass of tusks and blubbery bodies as they rested together in what’s called a haulout. It was an imposing, primeval scene—these are huge animals, comfortable in their harsh environment.
The following day at Eolusneset we had an even better vantage. From the shoreline and Zodiacs we watched a haulout on a rocky beach and listened to the guttural bellows that walruses make. Then some of the more curious swimmers swam straight toward where our group stood along the water, stopping just feet away and fixing us with their enormous eyes. It was unnerving and thrilling: they looked right at us, unflinching. Our guides calmly ushered everyone back to a safe distance; the animals lost interest and returned to their haulout.
On our final day, during a Zodiac cruise in Borebukta, we found walruses on fast ice. They bumped heads, vocalized, and generally went about walrus business while we drifted quietly nearby. As we headed back, a lone walrus popped its head up beside the Zodiac and hung there for a minute, tusks glinting and whiskers clearly visible. It was the kind of close, curious interaction that makes expedition travel unforgettable: not staged or tame, but a mutual moment of recognition between species.
Those encounters are what make Svalbard such a compelling destination. The region’s wildlife regulations and skilled guides prioritize safety and conservation, while the unpredictable behavior of animals ensures every outing feels unique. Back on the ship, with comfortable cabins, attentive crew, and thoughtful amenities, the balance between adventure and comfort felt just right.
If you’re drawn to remote, wild places and want chances to see iconic Arctic species—sometimes within striking proximity—an expedition to Svalbard delivers. From steaming in a pool with glaciers in view to standing quietly as walruses peer back from the water, the trip reminded me why I keep returning to the polar regions.
