Traveling during the mistral is no easy feat. The cold, relentless northwesterly wind can gust for days, and yet I went to the South of France in November. I was Condé Nast Traveler’s self-appointed France correspondent and set out to explore Provence‑Alpes‑Côte d’Azur in the offseason. I imagined sunny, crowdless days visiting Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape, Cézanne’s atelier, and Marseilles’ harbor restaurants. Instead, the mistral greeted me at the Avignon train station and pinned me indoors. So I stayed put—happily—at a renovated apartment that became my cozy headquarters.
The flat feels supremely chic and characterful: cream stone walls, high dark‑wood ceilings, linen on the sofa and the queen bed, and woven seats that nod to the region’s texture (with a few Ikea baskets thrown in). It’s small and simple but full of thoughtful details. It’s also very much of the 21st century: an induction stovetop, Nespresso machine, dishwasher, flat‑screen TV with Chromecast, Wi‑Fi, washing machine, an electric towel warmer, and a combined air‑conditioner and heater that I appreciated more than I expected. The host even provided a magazine‑like guide on how everything works—très chic.
A few practical notes: the building has no elevator and the apartment sits up a flight of stairs on the French first floor (that’s the second floor in American terms). The layout is efficient but compact; I’d recommend it for solo travelers or couples rather than families, unless you’re comfortable letting a child couch‑surf on the comfortable sofa.
When the sunlight softened the bite of the mistral, I escaped the flat to wander Avignon. The apartment is centrally located in the City of the Popes—home to the Palais des Papes, where seven popes ruled in the 14th century—so many sights are within easy walking distance. Jardin des Doms offers hilltop views, the Rhône and the famous four arches of Pont Saint‑Bénézet are nearby, and the Gothic Basilique Saint‑Pierre and the indoor market Les Halles d’Avignon are just minutes away.
Avignon itself is small, charismatic, and full of confusing, romantic alleys. I recommend lunch at Casa Bronzini—roast chicken, fries, and a glass of Chablis hit the spot. Hôtel de l’Horloge, currently under renovation, is set to reopen with refreshed rooms and looks promising. For dinner, try the cool bistrot Le Petit Comptoir and ask for a wine that pairs with their juicy burgers. Coffeecina is a charming spot for a breakfast burrito and even has a cute coworking space upstairs. For tastings, Le Vin Devant Soi pours interesting selections and offers charcuterie, and the boutique‑meets‑yoga studio Le Nid is a pleasant place to browse and unwind.
After long, quiet walks and many hours staring at Avignon’s intricate architecture, I was always glad to return to the apartment. The mistral may have kept me indoors more than I planned, but the flat’s comfort and calm made that a delight. It felt like soaking up a local version of hygge—an invitation to slow down. I still want a redo in summer, when the city livens up with festivals and warm evenings. When I go back, I already know where I’ll stay.
