You’ve likely heard of the Bazaruto Archipelago—the string of islands off Mozambique’s southeastern coast often hailed as one of Africa’s most beautiful coastal areas. The archipelago and its luxurious resorts have helped put Mozambique on many travelers’ radars. But on the mainland, a small coastal town deserves equal praise without the island price tag: Vilanculos.
Often used as the launch point for Bazaruto and Benguerra—just a 10-minute helicopter hop or a 20–60 minute boat ride—Vilanculos is easy to overlook. That’s part of its appeal. The town offers an authentic, lively atmosphere that remains largely tourist-free and far more affordable than the islands.
The mainland still delivers on that paradisiacal feel: miles of white-sand beaches occasionally punctuated by fishermen hauling in their catch and traditional dhow boats bobbing offshore. Beneath the calm surface lies one of the Indian Ocean’s richest marine ecosystems. Snorkelers and divers find pristine coral reefs teeming with life, and depending on the season you might swim with dolphins, whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and even dugongs—the waters between Vilanculos and the archipelago support the last viable dugong population in the western Indian Ocean.
I spent a memorable afternoon exploring Vilanculos with a local guide arranged by my hotel, Saudade. I learned about the town’s history: how the Chopi people built their lives around the sea and how, from around the 10th century, the Mozambican coast formed part of a broad trade network connecting East Africa with Arabia, Persia, and India. Arab and Swahili traders sailed these waters on dhows, stopping to trade ivory, gold, spices, and other goods.
A visit to Vilanculos market is a must to immerse yourself in local life. The town center comes alive with stalls: fishermen sell their fresh catch, vendors offer spices, herbs, and homemade condiments (I brought home excellent honey), and artisans display handmade crafts. Don’t miss the capulana fabric—vibrant cloth traditionally worn by women as skirts, headscarves, and baby carriers, and also useful as tablecloths or cushion covers. I also enjoyed browsing Shop Gallery Daniel Chivale, filled with woven baskets, wooden carvings, and beautifully made bags and pouches.
Food in Vilanculos is a highlight. While the islands boast fine dining, the mainland lets you eat where locals do: fresh seafood is ubiquitous, and Mozambican-Portuguese flavors shine. Expect spicy piri-piri chicken and matapa—a creamy stew of cassava leaves, coconut milk, and ground nuts often served with shellfish. Zita’s Restaurant is a popular spot that serves authentic dishes and offers cooking classes and market tours. The best recommendations often come from locals—ask your hotel, guide, or market vendors for their favorite places to eat.
Vilanculos may be more affordable than the archipelago, but it offers something equally valuable: cultural authenticity and a glimpse into coastal Mozambican life that can be harder to find at the ultra-luxe island retreats. It’s a peaceful, vibrant base for beach time, marine adventures, and meaningful encounters with local history and culture.
This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK.