Although I now live in Florence, I was partially raised in Rome by my Roman mother—and the Eternal City has deeply shaped how I see and experience life. I love its closeness to the sea, the morning vento ponentino (westerly breeze), the warm pastel tones of its buildings, Rome’s greatness in both name and scale, and the spontaneous rhythm of everyday life. Some of my favorite pleasures are the simplest: broccolo romano ripassato, a slice of pizza al taglio eaten while walking, and a long pranzo al mare in Fregene or Santa Marinella. Below are three days weaving my favorite moments into one trip. —Marina Cacciapuoti, Italy Segreta Founder
Hotel Recommendations
– Hotel Dé Ricci: Eight suites give this hotel the feel of a private home just off Via di Monserrato, a street that retains old Roman charm.
– Hotel Locarno: Its courtyard is a longtime favorite meeting spot for aperitivo; the main building still carries 1960s glamour.
– SuperAttico Monserrato: A beautifully designed penthouse on Via di Monserrato that feels like real Roman living.
– The Hoxton (Parioli): A laid-back base in a still-local neighborhood within walking distance of the historic center via Villa Borghese.
– Six Senses Rome: For a restorative spa experience after long days on foot—the signature holistic massage is reviving.
– Vuotopieno: Curated apartments where travelers live alongside site-specific works left by visiting artists.
Day 1: Sights along the Tiber River
Breakfast: Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Start with a slice of pizza rossa or a crostatina di visciole from this bustling bakery in the central piazza. Try small slices to sample different toppings: pizza rossa, pizza bianca, and fior di zucca are highlights.
Morning: Golden souvenirs
Wander the streets near Campo de’ Fiori, browsing shops for keepsakes and enjoying the rhythms of local life.
Lunch: Unfussy Italian fare
Choose a simple trattoria for classic Roman dishes that hit the essentials without fuss.
Afternoon: A walk through Aventino
Aventino is one of Rome’s seven hills and offers a peaceful stroll past Circo Massimo, the Rose Garden, and Liberty-style villas. Stop at Basilica di Santa Sabina, a 5th-century church that remains one of the best-preserved early Christian basilicas.
Dinner: Piatto Romano
Located convenient to Aventino, Piatto Romano focuses on seasonal ingredients and a wide variety of vegetable-forward dishes uncommon in many Roman restaurants. It nails Roman classics—gnocchi on Thursdays and excellent seafood on Fridays—while offering standout vegetable sides and simple, satisfying desserts.
Evening: Enoteca L’antidoto
Flag a taxi to this warmly lit natural-wine bar frequented by locals. The interior’s brick arches and exposed cement create a cozy atmosphere for bottles from smaller European vineyards paired with creative small plates. It’s a relaxed spot to linger over wine.
Day 2: Centro Storico (and beyond)
Breakfast: Regoli
Start your day with pastries at this beloved bakery—great for lingering over coffee and planning the morning.
Morning: FOROF (Trajan’s Forum contemporary art)
A short taxi ride takes you to FOROF, an archaeological site in Trajan’s Forum repurposed for contemporary art, where 2nd-century structures converse with the present.
Lunch: Classic Roman dishes
Return to the centro storico for a midday meal of Roman staples—think carbonara, amatriciana, and other regional favorites done well.
Afternoon: Gelato and Caravaggios
If the weather’s pleasant, stroll to Otaleg on Via di S. Cosimato for inventive, produce-driven gelato, or head to Ciampini in Piazza in Lucina for pistacchio e visciole or Nutella while people-watching. On your way, visit Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi to see three Caravaggio masterpieces in the Contarelli chapel—an intimate encounter with the maestro’s chiaroscuro and free to enter.
Dinner: A parade of seafood
Choose one of the city’s excellent seafood-focused restaurants for a generous, fish-forward meal—simple, seasonal, and fresh.
Evening: La Latteria
Finish the night in Trastevere at La Latteria, an oasis for natural wines from small producers. It remains a local, authentic spot despite the neighborhood’s increasing popularity.
Day 3: A Day Trip to Campagnano Romano
Breakfast: Santi Sebastiano e Valentino
Pick up pastries or road-trip bread at this delightful neighborhood bakery. You can reach the area on foot from the center via Villa Borghese if you prefer a morning walk.
Morning: A dip in a volcanic lake (Bracciano)
Rent a car for the 45-minute drive to Lake Bracciano. The clear volcanic waters are perfect for a morning swim; Trevignano is lovely for shore walks and swims, while Bracciano offers the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi for exploration.
Lunch: Osteria Iotto (Campagnano Romano)
Make a quick detour into Campagnano Romano for this family-run spot whose menu is sourced mostly from its on-site farm. The ever-changing dishes reflect the season; when available, the tacos alla picchiapò are a must.
Afternoon: Casa Molle Morpurgo (Italian Art Deco)
Head back to Rome for a private-tour gem: an almost untouched Italian Art Deco residence. Highlights include a green living room with drapery by Fides Testi, engraved mirrors by Pietro Chiesa, and decorative corals by Martinuzzi.
Dinner: Trecca (offal and Roman classics)
Trecca—young, energetic, and perfectly Roman—revives forgotten classics and isn’t afraid to serve offal. If you’re curious, try the refined-palates section; otherwise, stick to excellent pastas like carbonara or taglioni with chicken livers and butter.
Evening: Nightcaps at La Mescita
To wind down, stroll to La Mescita, a local bar where the regulars gather. Ask for recommendations on natural wines or enjoy a low-key aperitivo to close the trip.
Notes and small joys
– Move slowly: Rome rewards wandering. Sip espresso at neighborhood bars, taste pizza al taglio on the go, and prioritize simple, seasonal plates.
– Markets and bakeries: Seek out local bakeries and markets for unscripted pleasures—bread, pastries, fruits, and quick bites that feel authentically Roman.
– Book ahead for private tours and special restaurants where reservations are wise, especially for spa treatments or small-table venues.
Three days in Rome can be a whirlwind, but by balancing famous sights with quieter neighborhoods, local food stops, and a day trip to the lakes, you’ll get a sense of the city’s layered rhythms—its everyday beauty and its ability to surprise.
