Close your eyes and picture Scotland. If you’re not thinking of Edinburgh’s gothic architecture or the sweeping Highlands, you might be imagining neither place: the truest Scotland, I found, is felt in its people—local pubs, shops, and small streets where everyone seems to have a story. On a recent road trip with my partner, we began in Glencoe and drove south to Ballantrae, discovering that the best sights are often the unassuming ones. Here’s how we did it.
How to do it
The most important part of a Scottish road trip isn’t the views—it’s the right car. For narrow village lanes and long countryside stretches, a small, nimble car is ideal. We picked up a Toyota Yaris in Edinburgh: economical, easy to park, and able to dodge the lorries on single-track roads. Driving on the left was a novelty—my first curb came within minutes—but pull-offs and passing places double as fantastic viewpoints. At one stop a gust blew the door open and the sun split the clouds to reveal a rainbow over Loch Ba.
Day one: Glencoe
Glencoe feels more like a single street than a town, but it’s a gateway to the Highlands. Take the turn by the loch to reach The Carnoch, a mile-long row of stone houses with dramatic mountain views. Glencoe attracts outdoor enthusiasts—kayakers, climbers, trekkers—but it’s also excellent for a leisurely lunch by placid Loch Leven, whose island is the burial place of the MacDonald clan. A few miles east, the Kingshouse Hotel (a modern take on an 18th-century barracks) is a cozy stop for hikers on the West Highland Way, the nearly 100-mile trail that draws pilgrim walkers. We happened to witness a ceilidh after a wedding—live folk music and dancing that felt wholly authentic.
Day two: Ferries and Tobermory
From Glencoe we took the Corran-Ardgour ferry, then a Caledonian MacBrayne crossing toward the Isle of Mull. Ferries are one of the delights of road trips—time to linger on deck and watch islands appear. Tobermory, the island’s harbor town, is wrapped around a colorful bay; its painted houses feel like a painter’s palette. We toured Tobermory Distillery and sampled the Tobermory single malts—slightly peaty, with citrus notes and a salty finish—and I picked up a bottle of Ledaig 10. Full of whisky and curiosity, we climbed the hill toward the old castle site from the children’s show Balamory, then ducked into the canary-yellow Mishnish inn for crispy haddock and a night by the fire in a simple room above the pub. Locals filled the bar, sharing stories and setting the tone for island hospitality.
Day three: Dunkeld and The Taybank
Dunkeld, nestled on a bend of the River Tay, is the kind of place that makes you think about opening a small shop and never leaving. Its preserved architecture houses independent businesses: used books at The Birnam Reader, pastries at Aran Bakery, and local gin from Dunkeld Distillery. The town buzzes with community events—from ploughing matches to gardening seminars—but the highlight for us was Fiddle Night at The Taybank, a riverside pub with snug rooms above. The pub’s mix of pints and fiddle reels is quintessentially Scottish, and the restaurant upstairs offers a modern take on local ingredients: oysters with kiwi and coriander, Shetland cod in beurre blanc, and a memorable butternut squash wellington.
Day four: Beatrix Potter and the wilds
Locals are the best guides: over tea and scones at The Clootie Dumpling, Stewart and Jane steered us to Little Dunkeld to find the Beatrix Potter Gardens, a small lawn full of sculptures evoking the author’s childhood summers here. East of Dunkeld, the Scottish Wildlife Trust reserves and Loch of the Lowes are prime for hikes—or for an afternoon picnic with whisky by the water, which is exactly what we did. From there we headed toward Dumfries and Galloway, waving goodbye to our new friends who reminded us, “Don’t forget to get lost.”
Day five: Ballantrae and Glenapp
That advice served us well as we made our way south. A detour led to Kitchen Coos and Ewes, a farm teashop where Janet introduced us to each highland cow on her 600-acre farm as if they were family. Further along, we arrived mud-splattered at Glenapp Castle, our luxury stop for the night. The castle, built for the Earl of Orkney in the 19th century, feels grand yet welcoming: antiques and art fill its interiors, while common rooms and a roaring fireplace encourage guests to mingle. A picture window looks out over the Irish Sea toward Ailsa Craig—the granite island famed for providing the stone for curling stones. Staff served one of the best martinis I’ve had, made with local gin, and the sense of being treated like a houseguest in an elegant home lingered long after we left.
Return to Edinburgh
The drive from Ballantrae back to Edinburgh is short—about two hours—but a night at Prestonfield House on the city outskirts lets you extend the rural atmosphere. Housed in a 17th-century estate once belonging to Cistercian monks, Prestonfield is packed with antiques, tartans, and history. It’s a sumptuous final stop before heading into Edinburgh to stock up on marmalade, whisky, and wool sweaters—reminders of a trip through small towns where the people and places are the real attractions.
Practical notes
– Choose a small, fuel-efficient car for narrow roads and easier parking.
– Expect changeable weather—pack layers and waterproofs.
– Use passing places to pull over for photos and to let faster vehicles pass.
– Chat with locals; their tips (and invitations) are often the best parts of the journey.
This route—from Glencoe to Ballantrae with detours to Mull, Dunkeld, and country farms—wasn’t just about landscapes. It was about pubs that felt like living rooms, distilleries that bottlenecked island spirit, and people who welcomed us like neighbors. If you want Scotland that lingers in memory, spend more time in its small towns.
