When my husband and I decided to honeymoon in Japan and South Korea, I had one requirement: to visit an island, either Okinawa or Jeju. With two weeks and many plans, Jeju won for its ease of access. Only a one-hour flight from Busan, the island is often called the “Hawaii of Korea.” I fell for photos of its lush volcanic mountains, the haenyeo (women free divers), and seaside villages with homes built of dark volcanic stone. A K-drama set in a village like those, Our Blues, sealed my infatuation.
We chose a quieter village over Jeju City or Seogwipo City. At the end of our honeymoon, we wanted a place to sleep late and spend calm nights in a backyard after busy days in Osaka and Seoul. We found an Airbnb labeled an “Emotional accommodation with a view of Seongsan Ilchulbong.” Despite the odd translation, I was emotional thinking about stretching our final days there.
The Airbnb is built into the shell of a 50-year-old house, partially made with volcanic stones, but the interiors have been completely redone with neutral linens, warm wood, and modern amenities like A/C and a projector. The highlight is a round window at the foot of the bed that looks directly at Seongsan Ilchulbong, a volcano rising from the sea where haenyeo perform before diving to harvest abalone, urchin, and seaweed.
(The Airbnb is accessed through a courtyard with a small pond around which little orange crabs scuttle. — Photo credit: Megan Spurrell)
We arrived on a rainy night and fumbled through the courtyard to the lockbox. The doors are low—my nearly six-foot-tall husband learned to duck—but the warm room, plush linens, and a welcome basket with tangerine juice, gummy bears, and coffee made us feel at home. We couldn’t see the view that night, but the projector above the bed saved the evening. The screen unfurled in front of the window, Netflix already signed in, and we had a cozy movie night without the usual login hassle.
We had planned to rent a car but arrived without an international driver’s permit, so we relied on rideshares and walking. Though many advise having a car on Jeju, it worked out. Mornings became a ritual: long runs along the rocky coast past seafood huts and squid drying on lines, coffee and pastries at Fritz Coffee Company by Seongsan Ilchulbong (which we climbed the next day), then back to the yard through wildflower fields. We’d sit with coffee and books while the sun warmed the backyard. The host had warned that cats and birds might visit; a kitten and several birds did. The waterfront greenery nearby was the best spot for sunset.
There is a shower and a bathtub both facing the volcano outside. The Airbnb includes filtered hot-and-cold water, a fridge, a microwave, and a stovetop. We booked a day tour to see island highlights, which is handy without a car, but we were happy not driving every day. The spacious yard made it easy to laze around for hours. There’s a barbecue and a firepit; we walked into town to buy meat and vegetables and spent an afternoon grilling and sitting by the fire. (Using the barbecue or firepit costs about $20 per service—at least they set it up and provide supplies.)
Ultimately, this spot delivered exactly what we wanted in Jeju: quiet waterfront walks at night, seafood ramen lunches in a tiny village restaurant, and a reason to slow down and fall into the island’s rhythm.
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